Multiply the area in square feet by the fill depth in feet and divide by 27 for cubic yards, then multiply by about 1.1 for tons of screened fill. Raising a 20 × 20 ft area by 6 inches takes about 7.4 cubic yards, or roughly 8 tons — order 10–15% extra for settling.
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Order – tons (includes your waste allowance) so compaction and spillage don’t leave you short.
Fill Dirt Calculator Guide
Fill dirt is the material you buy by the hole: a stump cavity, a trench that settled, a low corner of the yard that ponds every spring. The estimate works like any volume problem — area times depth, divided by 27 — but fill adds a wrinkle no stone product has: it keeps consolidating after placement, so the volume you need is more than the volume you measure.
This calculator converts at roughly 1.1 tons per cubic yard for screened fill. Order 10–15% beyond the computed figure; loose-tipped soil gives up that much as it settles, and a slight surplus mound flattens into a perfect grade within a few months.
How Much Fill Do Common Jobs Take?
| Job | Dimensions | Cubic yards | Tons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stump hole | 4 ft diameter × 2 ft deep | 0.93 | 1.0 |
| Settled utility trench | 30 ft × 1 ft × 2 ft | 2.2 | 2.4 |
| Low spot | 10 × 10 ft, 4 in deep | 1.2 | 1.4 |
| Grade raise | 20 × 20 ft, 6 in deep | 7.4 | 8.1 |
For odd-shaped holes, measure the enclosing box and round up — a hole is the one place where extra material has nowhere to be wasted, since surplus simply crowns the repair against future settling.
Fill vs. Topsoil, and How to Place Fill So It Stays Put
Buy the right dirt for the depth. Fill dirt is subsoil — clay, sand, rock fragments, almost no organic matter — and that sterility is a feature: nothing in it decomposes, so it holds volume. Topsoil, rich in organics, shrinks for years as the organic fraction breaks down, which is exactly what you do not want three feet down. The standard build is fill to within 4 inches of finished grade, capped with topsoil only where something needs to grow.
Place fill in 6-inch lifts and compact each — a hand tamper for small repairs, rented equipment for grade raises. Water each lift lightly before tamping; moisture helps particles seat. Skipping compaction does not skip the settling, it just moves it into next year, complete with a dished lawn and a return trip to the supplier.
When the structural fill is in, size the growing layer with the topsoil calculator. And if your supplier prices fill by the yard but you measured in tons — or the reverse — the cubic yards to tons calculator settles it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between fill dirt and topsoil?
Fill dirt is subsoil — mostly clay, sand, and rock with little organic matter — which makes it stable and cheap for building up grade. Topsoil is the organic-rich top layer that grows plants; using it as deep fill wastes money and it keeps settling as the organics decompose.
How much does fill dirt settle?
Loose-tipped fill typically settles 10–15% as it consolidates, more if it goes in wet or in one thick layer. Compact it in 6-inch lifts and order 10–15% over the calculated volume so the finished grade ends up where you planned.
How many tons is a cubic yard of fill dirt?
Screened dry fill runs about 1.1 tons per cubic yard, similar to topsoil. Moisture changes this quickly — a wet load can weigh 20% more — so suppliers quoting by the ton may deliver less volume after rain.
Can I put topsoil directly over fill dirt for a lawn?
Yes — that is the standard build: compacted fill to within 4 inches of finished grade, then a 4-inch cap of topsoil for seed or sod. Rough up the top of the fill before capping so the two layers knit instead of shearing apart.